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We all felt we needed to watch for a while. We needed to see, you know, is there a consistency to the break? Is there a consistency to the size of the wave? When you surf up and down the west coast.

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One day you may see a spot like Tunitas Creek or Pescadero or one of those places and the break is beautiful. Probably fifteen, sixteen… yeah fifteen sixteen feet. So we all agreed. We all agreed, all of us that we all agree, number one, and then number two, we all go out together. Then, when one of us felt the urge we just took off, and it was Sopjes who took off first, you know, he was a gutsy guy. The saga of one brave man alone in the mist. I insist he describes it even though he just finished saying a there are no words to describe the feeling of taking off on a wave that is over your head but he kindly acquiesces.

Actually, I took off a little bit late because it seemed like it was easier to catch it taking off a little bit late so as soon as I got up, man, I was going right.


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Hard right. And I got out in front of the break and it was just a smooth ride, man. I loved it. So then after that it was just nothing. It was a piece of cake. How did we know? How did those guys know? How did Jeff Clark know? Did he have somebody watching it all this time? There is just no way to know. Where the hell is Mavericks? I mean, Maverick? All we had were longboards. The other thing that is not being taken into consideration is that the swell only gets real big in the middle of winter.

We rode the peak many times at 15 feet before those massive winter swells.


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